April 7, 2013

Mostly rectangles

For years, I've been happy not to follow the low-rise skinny jeans trend. My earliest self-drafted trousers (as in pre-dating the blog early) all had either a boot-cut or even a mild 70's style flare. Although I changed the shape of each new pair, including a venture into even roomier styles, nothing major happened  until I tried tapered belt pleated trousers back in December 2009. I still have and wear that particular pair and I have come to like it so much I keep telling myself to make another one. That was the first time I tried a radically different silhouette. 
Then, in January last year I made my first pair of high waisted, fitted trousers. Like the belt pleated ones, those were hemmed at ankle length. I know a lot of people hate that trend but I find it lends a touch of lightness to the whole look. 

By now, I think I have just about any trouser shape imaginable in my wardrobe (leg-wise that is, there is nowhere near as much variation in rise. And I still exclude RTW's best-seller, the true 'skinny' which relies on huge amounts of lycra for its close fit. Oh, and I don't count leggings or anything derived from them as trousers). I like the variety and I've found that each style has its strengths and weaknesses when it comes to making outfits. For example, I've found that I prefer to wear my jackets with narrow trousers (hemmed at ankle length). In that combination, they don't look quite so serious or over-dressed. 
This winter, I was reaching for the belt pleated and narrow styles way more than for the boot-cut ones. Even though I only have a rather limited number of tops which work with them.

Time to change that. Narrow bottoms tend to require a bit more room on top but I don't want my upper body to be swamped either. 
This is the first new thing I've made especially to go with my narrow legged trouser styles. It is still a bit of a winter-y, but I plan on making a couple of roomier t-shirt type things as well.  

I started out with the basic shape (a rectangle with the corners folded in) as the one I used for this cardigan. I've always liked that one, but the fabric is a bit too synthetic for my taste. And I wanted something a bit longer this time. Its tutorial is here.
For this version, I cut away a curved section at the bottom and made a double, 20 cm long band to attach to it, creating the waist-to-hip section. These pieces were cut in a woven boiled wool (which is thin for boiled wool). I made the front edge/collar and the cuffs from a rather stable black silk. 

When worn, this cardigan is all roomy shapes and angles but flat on the table it shows it's true 'mostly rectangles' spirit.
I'm happy with it, even though it now looks like spring is finally here so I may not get to wear it for a while (although Dutch spring always has cold days as well) 

1 comment:

  1. ah love it! ive made similar with the curved hem but have always been a bit ehh... about it all! thanks for sharing, will get on this!