Once more, I have coats on my mind...Not for me this time though. For the man in life.
I made this coat for him in September 2010 and he has only worn it just about all the time in the two winters since then. I replaced the lining last spring but, apart from some hard to remove stains, it's still going strong.
Nevertheless, I thought it was time to make him another one. Using the same fabric of which I still have a good 3 to 4 meters in stash.
He said he would wear the old one to work and keep the new one as his 'good' coat.
I started thinking about it last winter and I planned for something very similar in shape to the previous one, just with a rib-knit collar (the first sketch, top left). I just couldn't find an appropriately thick rib knit so I postponed until autumn.
By now, having recovered from a spell of low sewing mojo, I was looking differently at this coat idea. Then, E requested something which would look right when seen next to my new coat...
So, why not make something a little bit more classic, less casual. Like a double breasted coat, vaguely sailor-y (top right sketch)?
E sort of approved the sketch but wanted buttons at the sleeve.
Considering the back, I was reminded of the interesting design lines of 19th century menswear. The shoulder seams angled far to the back from a 'normal' starting point at the neck, side seams set far into the back, almost shaped like back princess seams...
Like this example from the book 19th century fashion in detail.
I planned to keep the basic shape I made before but incorporate the details I just mentioned.
Of course, I was going to make a muslin for the bodice. When drafting that, I decided on a whim to make the whole thing 15 cm longer than before and to include a center back slit.
E and I both liked the new length of the coat, to about mid-thigh. We didn't like just how straight and shapeless it looked.
I then went one step further with the 19th century influence: A horizontal seam in the front and side panels (last sketch). It will be ideal for making pockets and it allowed me to shape the waist a bit more without making it very obvious nor in any way (at least, I hope and think so) feminine. The front and side back 'skirt' are one piece which is ever so slightly flared. The upper pieces are seperate, so there is a sideseam there, which I took in 1.5 cm at the 'waist'line on each(sloping to nothing at the armscye).
Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of any of the fitting sessions so far so you will have to rely on my crappy sketches for now. I still have to draft a collar and consider button and pocket placement. I still kind of hope to get it done before the New Year...